This will be a Friday night entry with a couple of topics:
first, a review and some pictures of Mrs. Wooley’s 17th century Bisket
Bread and, second, some thoughts on episode three of Meat Men.
So if you remember the continuing saga of the bread instructions
in Hannah Wooley’s The Accomplisht Ladys
Delight, then you will recall that her recipe calls for the bread to be
sliced, sugared and dried in the oven, two days after baking. Last night was the two-day mark, so I worked
my way through what were by then two fairly crusty loaves. I tried some at this stage and despite being
very dense and highly spiced with fennel and coriander, it was was surprisingly
edible, especially if you like aniseedy-type flavours.
There were no temperature instructions for drying the
slices, so I put the oven on the lowest setting and let them sit through the
evening (about 4 hours,) then turning off the heat, I allowed them to sit in
the oven overnight. What I got was the consistency
of biscotti, though not as good unfortunately.
The spices had intensified even more and for this modern palate they
needed more sugar (if they were going to be like biscotti.) Having said that, they’re designed to “keep…all
the Year” and they just might. The
strong flavour also could mask any staleness, mould or critters that they might
collect in storage. Those Early Moderns,
always thinking. Overall though, this
was probably more of an academic exercise than a culinary one.
Meat Men part three was decent if unmemorable. The focus was another custom burger mix and
this time Pat LaFrieda Meat Purveyors
had the challenge of matching, with their mechanical process, a burger that an
eatery called Resto made by hand. The
prize was the being the supplier for all the restaurant’s meats. After two failed attempts, Resto threw another
test at the gourmet butchers: they wanted a Mangalitsa pig for a VIP customer
that night. (The Mangalista is a heritage
woolly breed of pig that was bred first by Hungarian Royal Archduke
Jozsef in 1823. They are prized for
their fat, which can be whipped like butter.) Pat finally delivered the burger recipe and
delivered the pig, carrying it in whole through the dining room. He seemingly impressed the client. One thing that was informative about the
burger mix in the episode was that it included pork fatback for flavour,
something very bad for you that you should probably try some time. There was also this side plot about trucks and
Pat Sr. which had very little to do with meat and to be honest I didn’t pay
much attention.


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